![]() They agreed to host Kraus at the group’s 2015 annual autumn conclave in Yssingeaux, located just south of Lyon, the pastry epicenter of France. The other was Thierry Mulhaupt of Alsace. One has to come from the initiate’s region, and there’s only one other member in North America: François Payard, a Frenchman working in New York City. The vetting process started with a sponsor (or, in Relais-speak, parrain, or godfather). The whole purpose of the group is to share knowledge. “It’s just mind-boggling, the talent in that group. “It’s kind of a secret order of knights,” Kraus said. His ascent into the Relais - a 35-year-old, excellence-obsessed Who’s Who of the bakery and chocolatier universe - has been more than a year in the making, and a fulfillment of a career-long wish. Last year, he led a three-man American team to the bronze medal at the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, the Olympics of pastry competitions. Kraus, baker/owner of Patisserie 46 and the recently opened Rose Street Patisserie, also in Minneapolis, is no stranger to flying in the stratosphere of his industry. He’s John Kraus, and he’s bursting, justifiably, with pride. The first American to be invited to join Relais Desserts, a 100-member fraternity of the best of the best French pastry chefs, quietly bakes croissants at 46th and Grand in south Minneapolis. ![]()
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